Capturing the First Commercial Spacecraft Re-entry in Australia

History in the Making: Capturing the First Commercial Spacecraft Re-entry in Australia

Re-entry over Ceduna - Sony A7IV

There are moments in life that feel like they’re straight out of a movie. This was one of them. As a mission photographer, I had the honour of capturing history—the first-ever re-entry of a commercial spacecraft into Australia. The mission took place over Ceduna, South Australia, and my task was simple in description but monumental in execution: to photograph the spacecraft’s fiery descent through Earth’s atmosphere.

The Challenge of the Unknown

Unlike other missions, this was a world-first, meaning there was very little intel on how exactly the re-entry would unfold. The only guidance I had was that it would look similar to a shooting star. Fortunately, my experience capturing meteors and fireballs gave me an approach—set up as if I was shooting a high-speed celestial event and trusting my instincts were correct.

Gear Selection: Trusting the Proven

One thing I learned from my Olympic competition days is to never go into battle with an unproven weapon. That philosophy guided my camera and lens choices. I opted for gear that I had used extensively, that I knew inside and out, and that I could operate flawlessly in complete darkness. In total, I had five cameras set up to maximise my chances of success:

• Sony A7IV with Laowa 10mm – A massive wide field of view to ensure I didn’t miss anything.

• Sony A7III with 14mm f/1.8 – A solid, fast lens for broad capture.

• Sony A7SIII with 14mm f/1.8 – Loaned by Sony for the occasion, giving me an extra ultra-wide perspective.

• Sony A7III with 20mm f/1.8 – A slightly tighter frame for another angle.

• Sony A7SIII with 50mm f/1.4 – A close-up perspective to try and capture fine details of the re-entry.

My exposures were dialled in as if I was capturing a Milky Way timelapse, ensuring I had the best chance of properly exposing the spacecraft’s streak across the sky.

Mission Gear

The Moment of Truth

Inside mission control, I was surrounded by some of the world’s leading scientists and aerospace professionals. My internal space nerd was running overtime. One hour before the expected re-entry, it was time to move to the observation area. I set up all five tripods, tested the gear one last time, checked battery levels, and ensured everything was ready.

At around 12:45 AM, the call came through—it was happening. From the horizon, a brilliant fireball emerged, moving across the sky, burning hotter than the surface of the Sun. It was like watching a plane on fire, except this was no ordinary aircraft—it was a spacecraft returning from orbit. With only seconds to adjust, I made final camera alignments, then stepped back and let them do their job.

The spectacle lasted for about a minute before the capsule disappeared into the darkness. Then came the moment of truth—checking my cameras. And there it was: the shot. I had successfully captured the historic re-entry on all five cameras. Even more astonishing, the 50mm lens revealed detailed breakup images of the spacecraft’s structure.

Rentry - Sony A7s3 / Sony 50mm 1.4GM

I walked over to one of the scientists and showed them the images. Their reaction said it all—this was the culmination of years of hard work and dedication to pushing human exploration forward. Seeing their excitement and knowing that my photography had preserved that moment forever was the ultimate reward.

Day Two: The Recovery Mission

If the first night felt like a movie, the second day felt like something straight out of Independence Day. Aboard what looked like a Black Hawk helicopter, I joined the team tasked with locating and recovering the capsule from the Australian outback.

Upon arrival, the scene was breathtaking. The spacecraft had landed in a classic red, sunburnt desert landscape, a stark contrast to the sleek technology that had just returned from orbit. My goal for this shoot was to capture not just the capsule itself but also the raw, untamed environment in which it had landed—a moment where cutting-edge science met the rugged beauty of Australia’s interior.

As scientists worked to prepare the capsule for its return to mission control, I documented every moment, knowing that these images would tell the story of an historic first.

A Moment to Remember

I have no doubt that more of these missions will take place in the future. But this was the first in Australian history; a moment I will always cherish. To have been part of it, to have captured it, and to have contributed to its legacy—it’s an experience that will stay with me forever.

Final Thoughts

This mission reinforced a truth I’ve always believed: Photography isn’t just about taking pictures; it’s about preserving moments that define human achievement. Capturing the first commercial spacecraft re-entry in Australia was one of those moments, and I am honoured to have been there, camera in hand, witnessing history in the making.

How to Image the Southern Lights (Aurora Australis) from South Australia: Including Smartphone Photography

August 2024 Solar Storm, Adelaide Hills South Australia

Photographing the Southern Lights, or Aurora Australis, is an exhilarating and rewarding experience. Over my 20 years of experience, I’ve seen many Aurora’s. However, the most memorable are the ones that I’ve been able to share with someone else.
For those living in South Australia, while we’re not at southern latitudes like Tasmania or New Zealand, we can still see a fantastic display of Auroras. Waiting for auroras can be unpredictable—you may know there’s a solar storm on the way, but not how strong or exactly where it will hit—if you're ready with the right equipment, you could capture one of nature’s most spectacular light shows. Being out there under the night sky is the first step. Whether you have a professional camera or a smartphone, there are ways to photograph the Southern Lights and preserve the memory of this celestial event.

Here’s how to capture the Aurora Australis, whether you're using a DSLR, mirrorless camera, or a smartphone.

1. Understanding the Unpredictability of Auroras

Auroras are caused by solar winds interacting with Earth’s magnetic field, producing stunning displays of light in the sky. Despite advancements in forecasting solar activity, auroras remain highly unpredictable. Even if a solar storm is predicted, there’s no guarantee of the intensity or visibility of the aurora, especially in South Australia. Often, you’ll have to wait and hope for clear skies and favourable conditions.

If you’re keen on photographing the Southern Lights, patience and flexibility are key. Sometimes, auroral activity only lasts a few minutes, while other times, the display could last for hours. You may have to return to the same location over several nights to get that perfect shot.

2. Choosing the Right Camera Equipment

For more experienced photographers with dedicated gear, a DSLR or mirrorless camera offers the best chance of capturing the vibrant colours and patterns of the aurora. But don’t worry—smartphone photography is also a viable option, especially with the advancements in camera technology.

DSLR or Mirrorless Setup

• Camera: A DSLR or mirrorless camera with manual settings is essential for night photography.

• Lens: A wide-angle lens (14mm to 24mm) with a fast aperture (f/1.8 to f/2.8) will capture both the aurora and the surrounding landscape.

• Tripod: A stable tripod is crucial for keeping your camera steady during long exposures.

• Remote Shutter or Intervalometer: To minimise camera shake, use a remote shutter or an intervalometer for timed shots.

Smartphone Setup

Modern smartphones have increasingly powerful cameras that can take impressive night shots, including auroras. While a smartphone might not capture the level of detail that a DSLR or mirrorless camera can, you can still get great results with the right techniques.

• Smartphone Model: Phones with advanced night mode capabilities (such as the latest iPhone or Samsung Galaxy models) are best for aurora photography.

• Tripod: Just like with traditional cameras, a tripod will keep your smartphone steady during longer exposures. If you don’t have a tripod, rest your phone on a fence post or something else stable.

• Shutter Release: If possible, use a Bluetooth remote or your phone’s self-timer to avoid shaking the camera when pressing the shutter button.
  
  
  
  

The Great May Aurora of 2024, Second Valley, South Australia

3. Camera Settings for Aurora Photography

The right settings will depend on the aurora’s intensity, but here’s a good starting point for both DSLR and smartphone users. Think of an Aurora like a storm, it’s always moving. So you will need to adjust your settings to the Aurora. Big storms will see faster movement than those just appearing over the horizon.

DSLR or Mirrorless Settings

• ISO: Set your ISO between 1600 and 3200 to capture enough light without introducing too much noise.

• Aperture: Use a wide aperture (f/1.8 to f/2.8) to let in as much light as possible.

• Shutter Speed: Depending on the aurora’s movement, set your shutter speed between 5 and 15 seconds. If the aurora is fast-moving, opt for a shorter exposure to avoid blurring, from 1-4 seconds.

• Focus: Switch to manual focus and focus on a distant star. Make sure the stars appear sharp and clear.

Smartphone Settings

• Night Mode: If your smartphone has a dedicated night mode, use it. It will automatically adjust exposure time and ISO for low-light conditions.

• ISO and Shutter Speed: If your phone allows manual adjustments, set the ISO between 800 and 1600 and the shutter speed between 3,10 and even 30 seconds, depending on the aurora’s brightness.

• Focus: Many smartphones allow you to manually tap to focus on a bright star or the horizon. Try to lock focus on infinity for clearer shots.

Aurora storm over Port Hughes, South Australia

4. Framing Your Shot

Whether you’re using a professional camera or a smartphone, framing is key. Auroras from South Australia tend to appear low on the southern horizon, so choose a location with an unobstructed view of the sky. Coastal locations such as the Fleurieu Peninsula, or other dark-sky locations away from city lights provide the best views. See my SA Road Map for list of dark sky locations in SA>

Consider adding elements of the landscape into your shot to give scale and context to the aurora. Including a silhouetted tree, hill, or body of water can create a more dramatic composition. Reflections of the aurora on water can be particularly stunning.

5. Smartphone Photography Tips

Although smartphone cameras have improved significantly, photographing the aurora with a phone still presents challenges. Here are a few tips to get the best results:

• Use a Tripod: Even a slight movement can ruin your shot. A smartphone tripod will help you keep the camera steady during long exposures.

• Manual Mode: If your smartphone has a manual or “pro” mode, use it to set a longer exposure time and higher ISO for capturing the faint light of the aurora.

• Use Night Mode: If manual mode isn’t an option, your phone’s night mode can be very effective at automatically adjusting settings for low-light conditions.

• Edit Later: Smartphone images often need a bit more post-processing. Use apps like Lightroom or Snapseed to adjust the exposure, contrast, and sharpness to bring out more detail in the aurora.

The Great May Aurora, Second Valley, South Australia

6. Post-Processing for All Devices

Once you’ve captured your shots, post-processing will help enhance the colours and details. Here’s what to focus on:

• Noise Reduction: High ISO settings can create noise. Use noise reduction in post-processing software to smooth out graininess.

• Adjust Exposure and Contrast: Adjusting the exposure will help bring out the aurora’s colours. Increasing contrast can make the aurora stand out against the night sky.

• Highlight the Colours: Boost the saturation or vibrancy to make the greens, purples, and reds of the aurora more vivid.

7. Patience is Key

Remember, auroras are unpredictable. You might spend hours waiting without seeing much, or you could witness a breathtaking display that lasts minutes or hours. Keep an eye on Aurora forecasts, but know that even with promising predictions, conditions can change rapidly. Be patient and enjoy the process of waiting under the stars—sometimes the anticipation makes the experience even more special when the lights do appear.

Final Thoughts

Photographing the Southern Lights from South Australia is an unforgettable experience, whether you’re using a professional DSLR or just your smartphone. With the right gear, settings, and a little patience, you can capture the magic of the aurora and create stunning images that reflect the beauty of the night sky.

No matter how advanced your equipment is, the most important part is simply being there, watching as the Southern Lights dance across the sky.

The ultimate Aurora Storm, Second Valley, South Australia

How to Photograph Bright Comets: Capturing the Magic of Comet C/2023 A3 (Tsuchinshan–Atlas)

Comet A3, October 3rd 2024

Comets are among the most awe-inspiring objects in the night sky, offering rare opportunities to witness the beauty of the cosmos. In 2024, Comet C/2023 A3 (Tsuchinshan–Atlas) promises to be a dazzling visitor, potentially becoming bright enough for both naked eye and telescopic observation. Having seen and imaged many bright comets over the past few years, I can tell you firsthand that viewing a comet is not just a visual experience—it can be deeply emotional, something you'll carry with you forever.

My journey with comets began in 1996 when I first laid eyes on Comet Hale-Bopp. That single moment changed the course of my life, igniting a passion for astronomy and astrophotography. Fast forward to 2009, when Comet McNaught graced the skies—it remains, in my opinion, the greatest comet of all time. Every comet has a unique presence, and with Comet C/2023 A3 on the horizon, you have the chance to capture one of the universe’s most remarkable phenomena. Let’s dive into how to photograph this bright comet and immortalise its celestial beauty.

Comet McNaught 2009, Moonta, South Australia

1. Timing Is Everything

The first step in capturing a comet like C/2023 A3 is knowing when to look for it. Comets become visible as they approach the Sun, causing their icy surfaces to vaporise and form a glowing coma and tail. C/2023 A3 will likely be most visible as it approaches perihelion, expected around late 2024.

For the best chance of photographing it, keep an eye on updates about its position and brightness. Comets can be unpredictable in terms of visibility, but photographing one is worth the challenge. The early evening or pre-dawn hours, when the sky is darkest, will offer the clearest views.

2. Choosing the Right Equipment

Photographing a comet is a bit different from typical landscape photography due to the low-light conditions and the comet’s movement. Here’s the gear you’ll need:

• Camera: A DSLR or mirrorless camera with good low-light performance will allow you to capture the finer details of the comet’s structure.

• Lens: A wide-angle lens (14mm to 35mm) can capture the comet against a stunning night sky. If you want to zoom in on the comet’s nucleus or tail, a telephoto lens (70-200mm or longer) will reveal more detail.

• Tripod: To keep your camera stable during long exposures, a sturdy tripod is essential.

• Star Tracker (Optional): A star tracker can help you take longer exposures without trailing stars, allowing you to capture more light from the faint comet tail.
  
  
  
  

Skywatcher Star Adventurer Star Tracker

3. Camera Settings for Comet Photography

The correct settings will depend on the comet’s brightness, but these are good starting points:

• ISO: Set your ISO between 800 and 3200. You want enough sensitivity to capture faint details, but not so high that noise overtakes the image.

• Aperture: A wide aperture (f/2.8 – f/4) will allow you to collect more light, which is essential for low-light conditions.

• Shutter Speed: If you're not using a tracker, limit your exposures to between 5-30 seconds to avoid star trails. If you're using a star tracker, you can experiment with longer exposures.

• Focus: Achieving perfect focus is essential. Use live view on a bright star and manually adjust the focus until the star appears as a pinpoint.
  
  
  
  
  

4. Framing the Comet

Comets, particularly bright ones like C/2023 A3, can be quite large in the sky, with long tails that stretch across the stars. Consider your framing carefully: wide-angle shots will capture both the comet and some foreground, like landscapes or trees, while zooming in will allow you to capture intricate details of the comet’s nucleus and tails.

When I photographed Comet McNaught in 2009, the bright, fan-shaped tail filled the sky—it was an unforgettable sight. The tails of comets can be either a dust tail or an ion tail, and framing your shot to capture their full expanse can result in breathtaking images.

Comet Swan, Adelaide Hills, South Australia

5. Taking Multiple Exposures

To enhance the quality of your image, take multiple exposures and stack them using software like DeepSkyStacker ( PC ), Starry Night Landscape Stacking ( Apple ). Stacking helps reduce noise and increases detail in the comet’s tail. You can also take separate exposures of the foreground to blend later, ensuring you don’t overexpose any part of the landscape.

6. Post-Processing Tips

Once you’ve captured your comet, post-processing will help bring out its beauty:

• Contrast and Brightness: Adjusting contrast will make the comet’s nucleus stand out while also highlighting its fainter tails.

• Noise Reduction: Use noise reduction tools to smooth out any graininess caused by high ISO settings.

• Colour Enhancement: Comets often display vivid colours in their tails—adjust the hue and saturation to enhance the natural blues and golds.
  
  
  
  
  

7. An Unforgettable Experience

Viewing a comet, especially a bright one, can be an emotional and awe-inspiring event. I’ll never forget seeing Comet Hale-Bopp for the first time in 1996—its brilliance filled the sky, and it was as if the universe was whispering its secrets. Comet McNaught in 2009 moved me in the same way, and each comet I've photographed since has been a unique and powerful experience.

If you’ve never photographed a comet before, prepare yourself for an unforgettable adventure. With Comet C/2023 A3 (Tsuchinshan–Atlas) lighting up the sky, it’s your chance to create stunning images of one of nature’s most mysterious visitors.

An Astrophotographers kit for imaging the Milky Way

Cameras 

Sony a7iii: My ever first Sony camera, the camera that made me fall in love with the Sony system. Every astrophotographer needs the best low light camera, and the Sony a7iii system ticks all those boxes for me. The dynamic range and low noise levels allows me to take those Milkway images that show every detail. From enhancing the color in nebula to crisp sharp images of the stars, it never disappoints. I leave this on Manual all the time and rely on my custom settings when in the dark. I recently had this camera astro modified, removing the IR filter which enhances the faint red emission nebulasI even have a second a7iii as a back up to take timelapses using the inbuilt intervalometer. 

Sony a7siii A camera that I use to capture video and tell the story of each of my images. With the amazing low light capabilities of its sensor with clean high ISO, it is able to capture some of the most amazing images even though only 12mp. I can literally see in the dark with this camera.

Lens

Sony 14mm f1.8 GM: A new addition to my kit and it’s added a whole new style of taking Nightscape images. The clarity and depth achieved at 14mm is amazing. The edge to edge sharpness and little to no distortion is perfect for the astrophotographer. It has not left my camera since I’ve started using it.

Sony 20mm 1.8G: If I could only choose one lens to take out at night, it would be this one. The perfect focal length of not being too wide but enough to enhance the fine details of the milkyway. The sharpness of the stars through this lens is mind blowing. It so light and compact it makes taking images so much more enjoyable. This lens lives on my camera.

Sony 24mm 1.4GM: At an aperture of f1.4, this lens is a low light beast. If my 20mm is being used for timelapse or video I will use this lens to capture the milkyway. At 24mm focal length, it increases the level of contrast of the dark lanes of the milkway and color in the nightsky. 

Sigma 35mm Art f1.4: At 35mm focal length is the perfect lens for enhancing the deep space objects but not too narrow a focal length to put the demand having perfect mount setup. Using this for multi layer panoramas take the images to the next level.

Sony 100-400mm GM: I use this lens if wanting to capture a full moon rising or silhouetting an object /person against the night sky. The clarity of this lens on deep sky objects is amazing and comparable to high quality telescopes in a lighter package. I also own the 2x teleconverter if wanting to increase my focal length to 800mm and capture the moon in all its detail. 

Accessories

Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer Star Tracker: The one accessory I could not live without. Being able to have pin point stars and increase my exposures to beyond 1 minute turns normal images into award winning works of art. 

Nitecore NU25: Every astrophotographer needs a reliable headlamp and I cant leave the house without my Nitecore NU25. Red light to protect my night vision and a bright enough white light to protect myself if needed. 

Fotopro Tripod: A tripod is the foundation of every nightscape photographers kit. I trust and use the Fotopro carbon fibre range of tripods. Love the leveling head of the E7 series when using the star tracker. 

Alyn Wallace StarGlow Filter: A great addition to the nightscape photographers kit. It creates a different style of composition enhancing the brightest stars giving them a glow effect. A unique style of shooting and something I’m using more on each trip.